Gear Guide - Jacksonville Roller Derby
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Gear Guide

Beginner Gear Guide

Want to know what kind of gear is required to play Roller Derby?

Check out our Beginner Gear Guide below!

Helmet

  • While there is no concussion-proof helmet, a skateboard helmet or hockey helmet can help protect from a serious brain or head injury.
    • Look for helmets that have been rated for safety standards. Some ratings include ASTM and CPSC.
  • It’s important to check out the helmet brand’s fit and sizing charts to find out what helmet size fits.
    • Fit should be snug and low on the forehead. The chin strap should be centered under the chin and fit snugly, so that no more than one or two fingers fit between the chin and the strap. Once the chin strap is fastened, the helmet should not move in any direction, back-to-front or side-to-side. The “Y” shape of the chin strap should shape around your ear with the “Y” shape coming together at the bottom of your ear lobe.
    • Helmet fit can change if your hairstyle changes. Consider buying extra foam inserts to adjust for changing hairstyle, or preparing to buy a different size helmet when hairstyle changes.

Mouth Guard

  • Mouth guards are not just to protect teeth, they are to protect from concussion as well.
  • Look for mouth guards for full contact sports that can be worn while still breathing and speaking easily, like those that can be heat molded.
    • The “Sisu” brand is one of the most seen in roller derby because it can be molded to the teeth for easy breathing, drinking, and talking without falling out.

Wrist Guards

  • Wrist guards should do just that, guard your wrists. Be sure the solid, hard part goes down over your wrist and does not only cover your hand.
  • The hump goes over the palm of your hand. The flat side goes over the back of your hand.

Elbow Pads

  • Hard shell elbow pads with a good fit.

Knee Pads

  • Falling down in roller derby is inevitable and a frequent occurrence.  The knees are most likely to take the force of the fall the majority of the time.
  • What to look for when shopping for knee pads: 

    • Thick memory foam and ring-shaped padding on the knee: this keeps pressure off of the kneecap.
    • Hard plastic cap over the knee, preferably with a flat, rather than curved, sliding surface.
    • Many skaters prefer butterfly back closure style over the pull-on style, so that the pad may be taken on or off without having to remove their skates.
    • Inline and recreational skating pads are absolutely NOT sufficient for roller derby.
  • Fit
    • Snugly, with the plastic shell cap positioned directly over the skater’s knee.
    • No slipping out of place when the skater gets sweaty or when performing falls.
    • Able to squat, kneel, and shuffle side to side.
    • New pads often feel awkward during crossovers at first, but most skaters adapt within a few practices in their new pads.
  • Some skaters wear knee “gaskets” under their knee pads. These gaskets can provide more specific protection around the patella of the knee.

Skates

  • If you ever get a seasoned roller derby athlete to talk about their skates, you better have the time to spare. The skates define our sport and are the extension of our athleticism.  It would be too much information to provide here, but we can tell you this:
    • Shop for track skates or speed skates. We do not use inline skates to play roller derby, but inline skates are allowed for skating referees/officials.
      • Some of the most popular brands for roller derby include Riedell, Antix, and Bonts.
      • The most popular starter skate is the Riedell “R3” due to its low cost, but efficient durability and specs for a beginner in this sport.  However, over time as skill improves, a nylon plate (the sole of your skate that the wheels and toe stop are attached to) may not be strong enough and may break easily.
      • Avoid skates that do not have any give in the “trucks”. Just like when you lean on a skateboard, it makes it turn, the trucks of a skate should lean just a bit with you. If they are stiff and have no give, you may struggle in learning some of the skills required to play the sport.
    • Ask many questions: Asking a veteran skater what they wear, and why they like it, is the best way to steer you towards which skate is best for you.
    • Try them on: Ensure the boot fits your foot well, but keep in mind that some boots can be heat molded to your foot for the best fit.
As a beginner, you may buy skates that have everything you need on them without having to change out any of the items listed below. If, and when, you are interested in putting together your own skate setup, here are some tips to get you started.

Wheels

  • If you ever get a seasoned roller derby athlete to talk about their wheels, you better have the time to spare. Wheels are very important to your speed and grip during gameplay. It would be too much information to provide here, but we can tell you this:
    • Know the number of your wheel HARDNESS and how that correlates to the type of floor you will be skating on.
      • Outdoor wheels are softer to provide grip and provide cushion over rough surfaces. These softer wheels have a hardness number around 78A.
      • Slick indoor surfaces, like polished concrete, may require a soft wheel with a hardness number around 84A-90A.
      • In-between indoor surfaces, like “sport courts”, may require a balance between grip and slide from a hardness number around 88A – 96A.
      • Grippy / Sticky indoor surfaces, like the coated wood JAX skates on at practices, may require a harder wheel that will not have you working too hard and rolling smooth at a hardness of 94A – 100A.
    • Some skaters mix up their wheel hardness. For example: wearing two harder wheels on the outside, and two gripper wheels on the inside.
    • “Hybrid” wheels are also available for sale. They provide two types of hardness on one wheel.
    • When purchasing wheels, be mindful if the vendor is selling you a 4-pack or an 8-pack for the price.
    • Metal hubs versus plastic hubs: This difference is mostly based on weight reduction, but it can also play a factor in how easily it is to take in and out the bearings. Plastic/nylon hubs tend to be easier to change bearings.

Bearings

  • The main item to look for in bearings is the diameter of the center and if it is the correct size for the axles on your skate plate.
    • 8mm axles; these are also known as standard 608 bearings
    • 7mm (627) bearings are relatively uncommon by comparison
    • Other sizes such as Micro (688) are only rarely seen
  • You will see bearings with a ABEC score. Higher ABEC scores indicate a more precisely made bearing, however, keep in mind that this system was developed for industrial applications, not skating.
  • Material used to make the bearing, and how many balls the bearing has inside, make the bearing valuable because there is less friction when spinning.
    • Ceramic bearings, six ball bearings, and eight ball bearings are all ways of reducing friction and thus adding value.
  • Use a bearing pull or ask for help when pulling out and putting in bearings for the first time. If a bearing gets bent, it may not spin anymore.
  • When putting a wheel on and tightening the nut over the bearing, be sure not to tighten to the point that hinders the bearing from spinning.
    • Once tightened, loosen by a quarter turn, then spin your wheel to see how long it spins. If your wheel comes to a stop or slows quickly, loosen by a quarter turn and repeat.
    • The wheel/bearing should not make any noise when moved back and forth on the axle, but still spin freely without slowing too soon.
  • Occasionally clean bearings by wiping them down and adding new bearing lubricant oil.
    • Taking apart bearings, stripping, cleaning, and relubricating is not always necessary, but can be learned and easily done if bearings have lost their spin due to debris or dirt.

Toe Stops

  • Some skaters do not even use toe stops, but for those who do, they usually choose large/wide styles for the best traction.
  • There are a large variety of toe stops to choose from and they can play an important role in gameplay. Look around and see other skater’s toe stops. Ask what those skaters like about their toe stops to help you find the best match for you.
    • There are rounded and flat toe stops
    • There are short-stemmed and long-stemmed toe stops.
  • How high up, or low down, you tighten your toe stop to your skate plate is important to your stability when using your toe stops. Most importantly, there should not be more than three finger widths between the floor and your back wheel when you are leaning your weight on your toe stop.
    • Too high up and you will fall forward when trying to use the toe stop to stop.
    • Too low down and the toe stop could hinder your overall movement.

Other Helpful Information

  • Lace up your skate boot in a way that is tight, but does not cut off circulation. Your toes should not go numb or tingly. There are many creative ways to lace up a skate boot that help with different shapes and sizes of feet.
    Laces with a wax coating are a great option for holding a secure laced up boot.
  • Wear comfortable, breathable, and movable clothing.Shorts above the mid thigh are worn often, but keep in mind that if you fall on your side, you will be subject to the removal of the outer layer of your skin at the midlevel to upper thigh area. This is affectionally termed "rink rash" in the roller derby sport, but it can be very painful in some cases.
  • Tighten or loosen your cushions on your skate plates to your preference. Play with the "give" in your lean.
  • Get a skate tool to keep in your bag that will help you to adjust your toe stop, trucks/cushions, and nuts on the plate axle.